DECEMBER 24, 2013: THIS PATTERN HAS BEEN UPDATED FROM THE ORIGINAL VERSION POSTED IN 2009. THE HEEL AND TOES PROCESSES HAVE BEEN ALTERED TO BE EASIER TO WORK.
These are a quick pair of socks to make, owing to the fact that the yarn is much bigger than normal. Ordinarily I believe that fingering weight and lace weight yarns are the best for crocheting socks, but this is the exception to that rule. Keep the yarn soft and loose - a tightly spun bulky weight yarn will feel awful on the soles of even the toughest feet. Lofty soft spun yarn is ideal.
I can make a pair of these while watching a movie because the large gauge means that they work up quickly. These would make a great last minute gift for someone with a cold floor!! Since yarn can be slippery sometimes, putting dots on the bottom with textured puffy glue (from Michael's or another crafting store) can help to increase the grip on the floor. Unless you like sliding from room to room.
Gauge: about 3.25 sts/inch in sc blo.
Yarn: Bernat Roving, two skeins.
I used to recommend Sean's Sheep "Armytage" because that is what I had made the first few pairs with, when I first posted this patter in 2009. That yarn has since been either discontinued or ninjas have hidden it. Bernat Roving is a good substitute. Look for a #5 weight yarn that is soft and lofty, and not tightly spun. This would be a great project for a nice hand-painted bulky yarn.
Chain 7, flip the foundation chain over, and starting with the second chain from the hook, work 6 sc across. Pivot the chain and work 6 single crochet into the top loops, for a total of 12 sc. Place split ring markers into the side edge stitches of your work.
First increase round:
Work 2 sc before and after each marked stitch.
Second increase round:
Repeat as before.
Repeat rounds two and three until the sock, when flattened width-wise, measures just shy of half the measurement around the ball of your foot.
Example: if the ball of your foot measures 9" around, the toe cap should measure 4.25 to 4.5" across.
When you are ready to work in even rounds, keep one marker to show the beginning of your round, moving it upwards as the work progresses, drop the other marker, and work even in a spiral (not turning or joining), working your single crochet through the back loop only (sc blo). Work in rounds until the sock, from the beginning, measures 2" less than the total length of your foot.
Working the heel:
Flatten the sock width-wise and mark the side edge. Work in pattern (sc blo) over to this marked stitch. This marked stitch is the beginning of your heel. Work this stitch and all other heel stitches as normal sc, in both loops of the stitch.
Example: if your sock is 28 sts around, you will work the very first row of the heel on 14 sts. The rest of the heel instructions proceed as though you are working on 14 sts - but you substitute your numbers if they are different and proceed in exactly the same fashion:
First row (RS): sc in 14 sts, ch 1, turn.
Second row (WS): sc across, leaving last stitch unworked. Ch1 turn. 13 sc
Third row (RS): sc across, leaving the last stitch unworked. Ch 1 turn. 12 sc
Continue as established, leaving one stitch unworked until you have 6 sc.
Next row: ch 1, turn, sc 6 sts, sc2tog over side edge and skipped st in row below. Ss in next side edge. Turn. 7 sc
Next row: skip ss, sc in 7 sc across to end of row, work sc2tog over side edge and skipped st in row below. Ss in next side edge. Turn. 8 sc
By picking up stitches in this manner, you create a short row heel that is shaped like a cup.
When you have picked up 14 sc in this manner (or whatever your number was), continue working in rounds of sc blo to work the leg of the sock. Make the leg as short or as long as you wish. In this example, we work 5 rounds.
Work 5 rnds in sc blo.
Round 6: work 4 decreases (sc2tog) evenly on this round. 24 sc.
Round 7&8: work even, sc blo, on 24 sts.
Round 9: Work hdc in both top loops of each sc around.
Round 10: Work front post dc around each hdc. Join first st to last with a ss and turn.
Round 11: Work back post dc around each fpdc. Join beg to end with ss and turn.
Round 12: Work fpdc around each bpdc. Join with beg to end with ss, fasten off.
Weave in ends and enjoy your socks.